On a moist Wednesday evening on a moist week in a moist January, London is being soaked by a small squall. Standing on the ninth flooring of 68 King William Avenue in Monument, on the Northern most tip of London Bridge, Wagtail’s outside terrace boasts hypnotic views of the Shard, the Gherkin and St Paul’s. A palm tree sways to sporadic gusts like a solitary hedonist on a dance flooring. A lightweight glows from the Nest, the venue’s distinctive non-public eating house which accurately perches on the sting of the landmark constructing. The terrace shines with drizzle however is closed to the general public.
Inside, the rectangular restaurant could be very a lot open and welcomes with an affectionate metaphorical embrace. All darkish woods and curved, leather-bound chairs, it’s a comfy affair with dusky and atmospheric lighting, a mix of pinpricks on the far finish and subtle and hazy clusterings within the center. Three arches behind the bar on the fitting showcase an array of vibrant bottles which carry the house’s in any other case monochromatic aesthetic. A clubby backbeat is current however sufficiently low-key to make it unobtrusive.
A prolonged desk to our proper seems to be like an workplace celebration that misjudged Christmas however, nonetheless, behaves itself admirably. In any other case, tables are spherical and filled with {couples} and pals protecting their counsel quietly and calmly. The cocktail checklist is in depth, mixing classics with signatures however the ‘Mixmaster 2024 Winners’ is probably probably the most tempting. A ‘Tyreece’ vies for consideration with an ‘Angelos’ however each are outshone by a ‘Rebecca’ which has an ingredient this reviewer has by no means encountered in a cocktail earlier than; Neck Oil Session IPA. Combined with Tanqueray gin, camomile, cinnamon, honey, ginger and lemon it’s a curious and tempting prospect however my visitor and I bottle it for bubbly options. I hit the Joseph Perrier, Cuvée Royale from Chalons-en-Champagne and my companion mixes it up with a home Nyetimber Basic Cuvée from East Sussex. The previous is dense, the latter mild and frisky and for sure each hit their actual mark.
Wagtail doesn’t supply a selected remit concerning its delicacies, however newly appointed Government Chef, Henrik Ritzen, who gained a Michelin Star after taking up the now defunct Aquavit, appears to supply a Danish strategy to British fare. With Smoked beef tartare, Crab salad, Spatcock quail, starters isn’t a straightforward determination. The baked scallops are offered individually, however our waitress recommends two. Every is served in its personal shell and is roofed in a hearty garlic butter and parsley sauce, which may equally work with a bunch of snails. The scallops are chic, mushy and succulent, however don’t overlook to order sourdough to dip into the garlic sauce as soon as they’re gone.
The Crudo sea trout may be in any other case generally known as ceviche in summer time months however slices are chunkier and extra beneficiant in portion. Served with criss-crossings of horseradish yoghurt, it would resemble a Japanese okonomiyaki however, naturally, tastes nothing like one. The sliced fennel provides one sort of crunchy texture, while caraway seeds add one other.
Strozzapreti with Winter truffle is a troublesome one to show down for mains, however we do stay in a hearty, seasonal realm, particularly with the Fallow Deer. Lower into slices and served with gravy and celeriac purée, it’s the flourish of cooked blackberries, nevertheless, which add a novel contact and a lovely visible drama to the deer’s medium uncommon flesh. The purée is velvety and couldn’t be smoother and the deer is surprisingly tender for such sport, doesn’t over-power, is sort of delicate and advantages from an intriguing, near fruity aftertaste. A British burger with chilli jelly additionally tempts however I go for Filet Mignon as an alternative, arguably a burger for the moneyed. It’s a daring, chunky piece of beef as darkish because the January evening with a slowly melting spherical portion of garlic and parsley butter on its high. What seems to be like an enormous chip, however is definitely a terrine made up of a number of skinny slices of potato, accompanies. A pink wine gravy surrounds each and for couple of minutes, our desk falls silent as we recognize our decisions.
The desert menu is brief and, not surprisingly, candy. With solely three choices past the usual cheese board and ice cream/sorbet choice, we nonetheless ask the Maître D’ for his recommendation. We eschew the Cardamon Pannacotta and Yorkshire Rhubarb for a Darkish chocolate mousse with Seville orange curd. Sprinkled with chocolate crumbs, the mousse is mild and foamy and nothing wanting luxurious, while the curd is tart and tangy. It’s, nevertheless, the Spiced pineapple, rum glaze and coconut sorbet which takes the dessert biscuit. Our Maître D’ instructed us this was particular and despite its simplicity, he wasn’t improper. Soaked in alcohol, the pineapple is intoxicating however mild in its spiciness which tingles nearly as an aftereffect. Mango foam provides to the occasion as do sliced almonds. Pure, delicate, pure, it tastes like a twist on custom, a vacation within the Caribbean, an indication of occasions to come back, hopefully, of a London summer time and distracted nights on the Wagtail terrace.
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