In Germany, many cities maintain asparagus festivals throughout its brief seasonal look, the spotlight of which spans from April ’til Might. Schwetzingen even crowns an annual Asparagus Queen. Spain and Italy are equally keen on the spear-like vegetable with a singular style and an much more, cough, cough, splutter, splutter, distinctive ‘after’ scent. Throughout the pond, individuals queue for it and eating places change their menus to rejoice it however within the UK, attitudes are muted at greatest; simply one other stick of greenery so as to add to the boring 5 a day.
Tozi’s head chef, Maurilio Molteni is confused by our nationwide disinterest and from the 7-18th Might, is hoping to disabuse us of it. To this finish, he has constructed 4 asparagus dishes for his ‘cicchetti’ menu. ‘Cicchetti’ is Venetian dialect for ‘small/aspect dishes’ and ‘Tozi’ can be Venetian dialect however for ‘mates’. We begin our night with some Franciacorta Brut, La Montina. This glowing chardonnay/pinot noir is, basically, an Italian champagne. It’s served not in flutes however in common wine glasses to permit the advanced flavours to breathe. It’s refined, crisp and chic and places us in a buoyant temper.
Our Calamari Fritti comes recent and tender, not within the ring type favoured in most UK eating places however in smaller, rectangular chunks suggesting it’s sourced solely just lately and is hand reduce. The batter is extremely gentle and small crispy tentacles make for a extra genuine European providing.
In case you’re not paying consideration, the Tuna Tartar might go for steak tartar earlier than tasting, coated, as it’s, in rocket and formed like a smaller burger. It’s served with dashes of chilli oil and a slice of lime and can be hand reduce into small chunks. With nothing else to flavour it, this delicate however pure providing is refreshing and virtually acts as an outsized amuse-bouche. Our first asparagus style accompanies Seared Beef Carpaccio with Shaved Pecorino. The asparagus is reduce into small vertical strips. Color psychology would possibly dictate that inexperienced provides a stress to pink, however right here the substances meld along with delicate, mouth-watering outcomes. The carpaccio’s seared edges additionally present an occasional chargrilled burst.
Subsequent up, a formidable double invoice, neither of which is fully dissimilar to the opposite; the restaurant’s signature dish Buffalo Ricotta Ravioli with Black Truffle and one other seasonal providing of Hand-cut Taglioni, Asparagus and (extra) Black Truffle. The previous consists of three massive ricotta parcels, every of which swims in a elegant butter sauce and is complimented by beneficiant slithers of truffle. The ricotta is tender and creamy and virtually melts with the sauce. Take away the ricotta and the hand reduce taglioni turns into extra of a spotlight. It’s al dente and there’s a lot much less butter but it surely’s additionally extremely moreish and, as soon as once more, the vertical cuts of asparagus fuse completely with the truffle. We add a smattering of black pepper so as to add a little bit of spice to what’s one other mouth-watering dish.
Tozi is annexed to Victoria’s Park Plaza Resort and one among its playful advertising and marketing instruments is a traditional, lipstick pink Cinquecento Fiat which stands proudly within the reception’s highlight. Subsequent to it stands an identically colored Vespa; collectively, they make for a charmingly surreal sight. Additional selling its nationwide id, black and white Italian dramas (with English subtitles) are projected onto a big and huge display screen above Tozi’s open kitchen the place a small handful of cooks focus all through the evening. The eating area is massive, fashionable, excessive ceilinged and wouldn’t be misplaced in, say, the trendier, Bermondsey Road. The lights dim progressively by way of the evening for a mix of romantic and laid again ambiance. And, do you have to go to the bogs, you would possibly learn to ask in Italian the place the bus to the seashore is (dov’è l’autobus per la spiaggia?) or how you can depend from 20 (venti, ventuno, ventidue, ventitré and many others).
We proceed the sharing ethos with two extra dishes and query our sommelier, Anna Laura, as to which wine ought to accompany them. Tozi has two ‘Orange’ wines for its glass of the month and we style each. Anna Laura educates us with an enthusiasm and data suggesting she would possibly personal the vineyards from which they emanate (she doesn’t) or has at the least visited them (she hasn’t). We go for the ‘Blind’ orange wine which is dry and has hints of apricot. Anna Laura’s colleague Angelina serves us with related heat and dedication to the menu.
The Pan Fried Hake, Fennel Puree and Samphire is deliciously succulent and comes with small tomato skins (not fairly sundried, perhaps baked?) for a burst of sweetness whereas the Sluggish Cooked Lamb Shoulder is sort of silky in texture. One slice is pure meat, the opposite has a strip of fats for extra texture and flavour. They’re accompanied by big couscous, a pink wine sort sauce and small cuts of black olive for a salty kick.
For dessert, we go for Italian classics each of that are served with a twist. Espresso is poured onto the Tozi Affogato on the desk. The boule of vanilla ice cream is massive and topped by crispy chunks of meringue which soften into the dish. Within the ice cream’s center, a coronary heart of viscous chocolate surprises. The clue to the Pistachio Tiramisu is within the title. Served in a glass, the nut’s pastel inexperienced virtually makes it seem like a well being drink, even whether it is topped off by a sprinkling of cacao powder. The amaretto is much less noticeable than in some tiramisu however a chocolate/caramel layer on the backside makes this an prompt traditional and an ideal finish to a flawless meal.
