The Angel Above Portobello – Restaurant Overview

The Angel Above Portobello has opened its doorways at London’s iconic Portobello Highway, located on the primary flooring of ‘The Distillery’. With a give attention to trendy British delicacies, the 34-cover restaurant is led by govt Chef Peter Breckon and gives a la carte eating and modern small plates. Emphasising high quality native substances and an intimate eating ambiance.
Learn on to find extra.

Notting Hill’s ‘The Distillery‘ is a multi-faceted venue situated on the Ladbroke Grove finish of Notting Hill’s vibrant Portobello Highway. It has a freshly painted powder blue facade, white window frames, midnight blue awnings and a purple lion insignia, framed in a fiery gold stamp, which claws playfully but proudly over the bottom flooring cocktail bar, The Resting Room. The constructing additionally homes a Ginstitutue, a handful of bedrooms and its latest enterprise, the 34-cover ‘Angel above Portobello’ restaurant.

The restaurant is a sq.; no nooks and crannies within the Angel, no cubicles by which to cover or slink. Three giant, vertical images of Scandinavian or Scottish forests, of swirling mists and turbulent waters dominate the room, and complement the pistachio partitions, and the dark-hued tables and flooring. A picket halo hangs from the ceiling with burning candles. The atmosphere is formal but elegant, correct but dignified; the house calls for to be taken significantly but possesses intimacy and friendliness.

The menu options rigorously crafted small plates like tea-smoked salmon and roasted hispi, together with sharing dishes that spotlight premium and sustainable cuts of beef and pork, the place you possibly can take pleasure in six small plates for £66, mains from £19 and sharing plates from £55. We opted for 4 small plates and two mains. Regardless of what you select, the kitchen dictates which dish is served by which order and the Crab, Mariner’s Relish, Mooli, and Sea Veg arrives first. Coated in inexperienced leaves, punctuated with yellow and white petals it seems to be prefer it might be a bridesmaid’s avant-garde clutch; it’s fairly stunning, a murals in itself, nearly a disgrace to dissect.

One reads about flavours exploding in mouths with some cynicism however that’s precisely what occurs right here. The brown and white crab flakes type the bigger a part of the dish however all of a sudden there’s a burst of parsley. After which lemon. And one thing nutty – a sunflower seed? And one thing chewier; some samphire. After which, what? A crunch amongst all this gentle succulence? Yep, you bought it; a wasabi pea! Past being extremely tasteful, that is truly enjoyable to eat as a result of all of the flavours preserve bursting forth, demanding to be recognised. Name it a sharing plate? Completely not; no approach I’d share this once more; get your personal!

The subsequent two plates share a equally aesthetic presentation and flavourful joie de vivre. The child beetroots and carrots are completely al dente and accompanied by elegant gin & tonic ricotta which is a surreal triumph, the feel as you’d anticipate however the style delicate, the ricotta extra a ghostly reminder, the G&T’s presence, subtle. Venison with labneh (gentle cream cheese), with oil, sesame and pomegranate seeds is sprightly and never candy precisely, however comforting.

However then a fermented gooseberry comes alongside and propels the dish into one other dimension. The shock of the gooseberry, bitter however thrilling, virtually makes us snicker; it challenges our tastebuds however finally rewards them. The cod cheeks with spelt, fennel and tomato are much less visually enticing than the earlier dishes, and fewer busy, too, however with slight crispiness on the skin and slick succulence on the within, they’re no much less scrumptious for it.

Each pork and beef ‘Sharing Boards’ function on the menu as mains however these bigger parts are usually not advisable after even 4 sharers. They sound intriguing and embody apparent cuts of meat however much less apparent ones, too; collar, shin, tail. We go for Bavette Steak and Uncommon Breed Pork Chop single parts. Each are extra formal than the sharer plates and fewer ebullient of their experimentation however are nonetheless excellent, the eye to element, nonetheless intact. The roast potato with the Bavette is an particularly nice and strange shock, it seems to be extra like bone marrow, flat and spherical and wonderfully crunchy on the skin. The berry Jus isn’t sticky however extra easy and fluid, the steak itself, a picture-perfect presentation of pink meat with a small border of darker, better-cooked meat. Equally, the pork is moist and comes with an rectangular piece of pork scratching that’s so thrilling it ought to come wrapped.

After such a veritable feast, a dessert appears gluttonous however concurrently a missed alternative. We proceed the evening’s theme and share a Peanut Butter and Salted Caramel Parfait. The parfait is the width of a plantain and remarkably, the desert isn’t as wealthy because it sounds.

It’s a unbelievable decision to a unbelievable meal filled with aptitude. Government Chef Peter Breckon is a towering but affable Geordie and an acolyte of Heston Blumenthal and Mark Hix. His mastery of each formal and fewer formal dishes is a testomony to his schooling and culinary skillset and what he gives right here is nearly unprecedented; basically an extravagant taster menu at an extravagantly reasonably priced value. The Angel has solely been open just a few weeks however one can’t assist however suppose the phrase will escape rapidly as soon as it does escape; deal with your self, e-book now, keep away from disappointment!

Simon Rulmey

Simon Rumley is among the UK’s main impartial movie administrators and his debut novel, The Wobble Membership is revealed in October. Simon can be our man on the bottom in London.

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