Situated under Annabel’s on Berkeley Sq.’s south-west nook, the Landsdowne Membership exterior is adorned with two blue heritage plaques, one for ex-Prime Minister William Petty and one for division retailer magnet Harry Gordon Selfridge, each of whom lived within the Georgian constructing earlier than it transformed to a personal membership in 1935. Famed on the time for permitting not solely males but in addition ladies as members, the inside retains many authentic options, together with large open areas stuffed with marble, gold leafing and elaborate cornicing on each ceiling and nook. As soon as previous reception, up a couple of stairs, a carry rises to the second ground, the place diners cross via two glass doorways earlier than arriving on the restaurant on the correct. A neat and tidy bar stretches straight forward, and one other receptionist welcomes you to each.
A uncommon oasis of calm in Mayfair, design is unfussy, driving someplace between artwork deco, elegant, minimalistic and bare. Colouring is oceanic, mixing gray, turquoise and inexperienced relying on the place you look and at what angle. Lighting is brilliant, tablecloths are white, and a gray carpet provides a tender and bouncy contact to proceedings. Some wall based mostly tables double as makeshift cubicles with heavy hanging curtains for additional privateness. We begin with home champagne and are virtually instantly introduced with 5 slices of bread and three varieties of fluffy, mousse-like butter. It appears like an unofficial take a look at, a combination and match quandary and we hope nobody’s eavesdropping. Does the olive sourdough work finest with onion or mushroom butter? Ought to we even ponder tomato butter on the sundried tomato focaccia? What concerning the seeded flatbread? Absolutely, no butter in any respect?
It’s a enjoyable solution to kick the style buds into motion and the artistic juices into analytical mode, each of that are additional examined and handled with some spectacular starters, the descriptions of which don’t do them justice. The Seared Orkney Isles Hand-Dived Scallops demand visible investigation earlier than tasting. The three scallops are partially hidden with nduja sausage and parsley and interrupted by two cubes of pork stomach. There’s a mussel right here, a mussel there, and a few funky Romanesco broccoli, the energetic pale inexperienced colouring of which lifts the plate’s in any other case extra dour colouring. Tasting contradicts already excessive expectations with the surprising; nduja gives the scallops with a meatier immediate while a coconut and lemongrass flavour, erring in direction of tom yum soup, gives the meat with a a spicier however refreshing immediate. It’s a style bud ping pong finessed to perfection.
The Cromer Crab resembles a shimmering eccentric underwater broach. The brown crab is whipped to smithereens, easy as silk however is especially hidden by jellified haddock consommé. The color palate is lifted by inexperienced leaves and brilliant pink apple blossom and its consumption appears to go on for ever, is pure decadence.
Mains primarily embody grilled surf and turf with lobster and monkfish in addition to wagyu and aged rib-eye. Gianni, our waiter, suggested us on starters so we return to him and there’s completely no hesitation. The Roast Saddle of Venison for 2 is pure gastronomic theatre. Served on a trolley, reduce on the desk, it takes three to ship to our plates. It’s tremendous darkish on the skin and completely crimson in its center.
Swimming in pink wine and juniper berry jus on one facet of the plate, a phalanx of winter root greens curve across the reverse. At occasions it’s a guessing sport with outlandish and unique stabs – plum, child carrots, beetroot of various colors, possibly a radish or one thing near pickled watermelon, dollops of carrot and aniseed purée. For additional idiosyncrasy and a private contact, small pots of creamed girolle mushrooms, hazelnut powder and berry sauce tempt. As do, two semmelknödel – bread dumplings. With a lot else to think about the Venison might grow to be secondary however is so good that it refocuses the wandering consideration on what’s an opulent and supremely various dish, concurrently rustic and old school in its roots however city and veering in direction of daring in its contemporaneity.
Though different members of workers have interaction with and serve us, Gianni is our fixed. He appears to be a person who loves his job and one possessed of many skills. Raconteur, historian, adviser, Maitre D’, sommelier, even chef at one level. He decants our really useful Casa Silva Carmenere from Chile which he describes as full-bodied however delicate. He’s a cheery presence who elevates our night and contextualises all that’s on provide. As we dissect the dessert checklist, he explains the historical past of one of many objects – Crêpe Suzette – one thing to do with a mistake which induced sugar to caramelise, chef Henri Charpentier, the long run King Edward VII and a visitor companion who was truly referred to as Suzanne.
In fact, we selected the Crêpe Suzette, which Gianni prepares in entrance of us with extra theatre. Our receptionist joins for good measure, as does one other waitress. The dish is ready on a tall, vintage silver range with some pouring, some flourishing and a metre and a half blue flash flame which delights all involved. Pancakes swim in orange butter sauce, chunks of orange lounge and a Tahitian Vanilla bean ice cream melts from the dish’s center. My buddy says it’s higher than her mum’s which have to be the most important praise a diner could make – simply don’t inform the mum.
My mum by no means experimented with White Chocolate Mousse however I believe she’d have struggled to match this one. The plate has a largely golden, orange palette whereby a quenelle of mango sorbet is flanked by two quenelles of white mousse as mango salsa, a skinny and shock layer of meringue, a smattering of white chocolate soil all add to the bravura. It’s a implausible solution to finish an distinctive night the place a relaxed however intimate environment is compounded with charismatic service and thrilling cooking.
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