Set on a residential road on Eyre Place, between Edinburgh’s New City and Stockbridge, I stroll previous Cardinal nearly each day and have usually puzzled what sits behind the wood slat shutters, so I used to be delighted after I obtained an invite to expertise the Tasting Menu at this fine-dining impartial restaurant.
Setting the Scene
A small candle-lit reception space with a heavy floor-to-ceiling curtain that divides the doorway from the principle restaurant is the place we’re instantly greeted by the pleasant entrance of home. Our coats are taken and we’re made to really feel very welcome with some casual chit chat earlier than being guided to our desk.
The restaurant is intimate with simply 24 covers and makes use of its area properly, tables stand at a decent distance aside (avoiding the dare-not-speak diner situation) and are set with minimalistic cutlery, a trio of feathers kind the centre piece that are illuminated by the amber glow from the tumbler-style desk candle. The background music is of an Ibiza-chill style. Darkish wooden tables, chairs and black banquette seating are complimented by bursts of vibrant color from the art work adorning the uncovered stone partitions. The vibe is unassuming cool. I instantly like this place.
And what makes it much more likeable is that the interiors have all been designed by Chef himself, and he has personally chosen the art work, all of which is in the stores and helps Artwork in Healthcare, a charity working throughout Scotland to enhance well being and wellbeing for people and communities.
Regardless of it being a bleak mid-weeknight in January, the restaurant is sort of full, and with the mix of the complete tasting menu, or a set 3-course menu (at an affordable worth level) we be taught that the restaurant is a favorite with vacationers and locals alike. At all times signal.
Chef
Owned and led by Chef Tomás Gormley, Cardinal opened in March 2024 and is an idea that goes past the excellent culinary abilities of the acclaimed Chef. The restaurant idea is underpinned by Chef’s zero-waste ethos, which Chef strives to include wherever doable. Working with native suppliers and as intently with nature as doable additionally enhances Cardinal’s culinary providing and for additional depth of flavour and distinctive character, dishes are cooked over coals within the kitchen.
Cardinal additionally brings collectively artisans from completely different disciplines to create a singular and sensory expertise. For instance, collaborations with potters for the plate and tableware, artisans equivalent to native candle makers (considered one of whom is his Aunty), foragers and native produce specialists. It’s all these additional touches that work collectively to make the entire larger than the elements.
With spectacular credentials and a CV that features time at Edinburgh’s iconic 21212, led by Paul Kitching, at Le Roi Fou below the steering of famend chef Jerome Henry and at Restaurant Andrew Fairlie on the Gleneagles Lodge, it’s no surprise that in 2023 Tomás was named CODE Hospitality’s “30 Below 30” and listed as quantity 28 in The Record’s “Sizzling 100”.
The Tasting Menu
The menu sits on the desk, awaiting diners’ arrival. It’s easy in presentation with a hand-drawn illustration of the restaurant exterior and slightly purple fowl stamp (a nod to the restaurant’s title’s sake) and minimal in description, creating a way of anticipation and surprise for every of the ten programs.
The tasting menu is a comparatively palatable (pardon the pun) worth level with the choice for wine pairing too. We opted to share a bottle of white wine which the very educated sommelier guided us on and selected Clos de L’Epinay, an natural vineyard in Vouvray. The chenin blanc offered a stone-fruit vibrancy which was creamy to the end and regarded barely cloudy as a consequence of its bio-dynamic nature. It reminded us of a crisp and extra elegant cider. It was extraordinarily quaffable!
We start the journey with a light-weight pumpkin soup served in a stone vessel. It’s salty, barely candy and scrumptious. I battle to detect pumpkin, however an umami component is unquestionably current. The soup is made with oil infused with lovage and a splash is added to the highest to create the enjoyable color separation. We’re off to a wonderful begin!!
The subsequent dish is sort of too stunning to deconstruct. Standing on a sturdy stone pillar sits a fragile creation that’s nearly butterfly-esque. The star of the present is yellow fish tuna complemented by Fermented celeriac and crunchy Granny Smith apple. I attempt to savour this in two fairly clumsy bites and rescue the second earlier than dropping it to the ground. I’m so happy I did – this mixture of soppy fleshy tuna with the tart apple and earthy celeriac is totally divine.
The ‘carb’ course follows. Small however completely fashioned slices of sourdough bread brown in color served with an ideal scoop of soppy brown butter. The bread is made utilizing grains solely present in Orkney, it has a light-weight and fluffy centre with a crunchy crust and is completed with poppy seeds presenting a slight sweetness. The heavenly scoop of brown butter is made following Chef’s zero waste ethos. It eagerly oozes throughout the slice of heat bread with creaminess showcased in full glory. The primary chunk is barely salty with a touch of sweetness coming by means of. I may eat this till the cows (that make this creamy delight) come house!! Significantly, if every course had been this repeated ten-fold I might not have been disenchanted.
Every course is served in a well timed method, with time to chit chat in between and primarily revelling within the culinary delight that has gone earlier than us. The entire expertise could be very relaxed.
Every course is offered on a smooth tray, one other considered one of Head Chef’s collaborations, and is described in nice element by the proud and educated crew member. It’s evident that each participant right here shares the identical pleasure and satisfaction that could be a results of each the creativity and exhausting work that clearly goes into this rigorously crafted menu.
Earlier than the subsequent course arrives my buddy pops to the lavatory, instantly the waiter sweeps the desk with a mini dustpan and brush and neatly folds his serviette in preparation for my buddy’s return. Consideration to element prevails all over the place.
We’re then offered with a wonderful oyster shell during which we discover, beneath mild ethereal yoghurt foam, a tantalising mixture of crunchy carrot and ginger, Unami citrusy sea buckthorn fleshy salty sea trout completed with roe for additional texture, the sharpness of the dish is completely balanced by a sauce which presents an surprising richness. We’re knowledgeable this is without doubt one of the extra advanced dishes on the menu and we cannot solely see but in addition style why. There are such a lot of elements to this dish and it’s competing with the bread for my primary spot (thus far!).
Belhaven smoked lobster tails which have been smoked in cherry wooden whisky casks improve the smoky flavour. The flamingo pink bisque hides comfortable and buttery potatoes from close by Northumberland, and the chilli offers the dish a warming kick. Yum!
Persevering with the sea-faring theme, succulent scallops are subsequent on the menu served in creamy, barely salty sauce with a contact of zing from lemongrass. Fermented leek bulbs, which look a bit like inexperienced lentils, add nice texture to the dish. We be taught that the leek bulbs are fermented on the finish of their season to allow them to be used later all year long. I’ve by no means tried these earlier than however totally loved this dish, it’s my buddy’s favorite (once more – thus far!!)
Venison. Venison. Venison. Every time I see this on a menu my coronary heart flutters and I begin to salivate. It’s my all-time favorite meat, so I’ve excessive hopes for this course.
The venison is from Hopetoun Property, simply 40 miles away from Edinburgh. The succulent, completely pink slice has been barbequed, and the tender piece of meat is complemented with a syrupy jus produced from fermented blueberries and caramelised miso served over agency purple and golden beets. On the aspect sits a juicy and peppery venison faggot – not solely a scrumptious companion to the star of the present but in addition one other instance of Chef’s zero-waste ethos. Chef’s tackle venison has far surpassed my expectations.
Just like the Lobster, the cheese course is served as a part of the ‘Full Cardinal Expertise’ and though I’m not a cheese lover, I resolve to provide it a strive – inspired by my cheese-fiend buddy who thinks he’ll get my leftovers. This description is maybe probably the most understated description on your entire menu. Impressed by a Portuguese Pastel ’de Nata. A crisp and butter pastry encases a heat, comfortable and creamy Isle of Mull Cheddar ‘custard’ befriended by candy and tangy pickled pearl onions, slices of tart Gala apple, barbeque cheese wedges, pickled mustard seeds, candy apple cider chutney all completed with hanging inexperienced chive ribbons. For sure, there weren’t any leftovers!
That is the most well-liked dish on the menu, so it stays a agency fixture, altering solely the trimmings to mirror the flavours and produce of the season.
Taking time to digest the array of really delectable dishes we benefit from the music, sip on our wine, and browse with intrigue what’s coming subsequent. We’re supplied a dessert wine; nonetheless, I’m not a fan of candy wine and I’m already feeling slightly tipsy so politely decline.
The waitress arrives along with her smooth stone tray and presents us with a ‘pre-dessert’ dessert. My, if that is simply the ‘pre-dessert’ we’re in for a good higher deal with with the principle dessert.
Heat, velvety chocolate sauce is poured from a stone jug over the chocolate creation which is wealthy and indulgent but because it’s produced from aerated chocolate isn’t sickly within the slightest. It jogs my memory of an extravagant and really decadent ‘Flake. It’s served with quince sorbet flavoured with cinnamon and seasonal spices. Crunchy cocoa nibs add distinction to the feel. It’s heavenly. Extra sir, please can I’ve some extra!!
The ultimate course of the night had quite a bit to dwell as much as, following a collection of ‘that is my favorite!!’ programs. Described as Poppy Seed | Lemon | Malt, I’m undecided what to anticipate.
It’s a rigorously constructed work of meals artwork and I’m undecided I’ve the guts to dig in. That thought doesn’t final lengthy……the principle dessert is a bread dessert made with extra bread, based mostly on the French toast fashion dish. As we all know, the much-loved Cardinal’s bread is baked in-house, and so they use any leftovers to create this exact and considerate dessert.
The dish centres round Chef’s personal tackle a refined French toast, which is served with malted barley milk and a bread-based ice cream. Poppy seed caviar provides texture and distinction, and the bottom is completed with breadcrumbs blended with muscovado sugar and egg white to create a crisp and light-weight meringue-style topping with kvass gel. Kvass is a frivolously alcoholic fermented drink that sits someplace between kombucha and beer. They make it by toasting bread, then fermenting it in water and sugar, they then scale back the liquid and set right into a gel for this dessert. Candied lemon peel balances the richness, and the smattering of delicate edible flowers are the completion. This concluding creation actually epitomises not solely Chef’s excellent culinary abilities, creativeness and creativity, but in addition his integrity in upholding his zero-waste perception.
The present’s not over but. Though we each decline a espresso, we’re served a trio every of petit fours that are poised tantalising on one other sturdy stone pedestal. Regardless of being fairly full and nonetheless delighting in what we’ve simply skilled it could be impolite to not end the crystalised jelly, crisp and chewy macaroon and oozing caramel treats. Thanks.
Closing Ideas
Again to the beginning of the narrative. I used to surprise what lies behind the secretive wood shutters as I walked previous the unassuming restaurant window. I now know. And I now love this intimate hidden gem. Cardinal is an absolute must-visit and never only for foodies, for anybody who enjoys meals that’s past glorious (each in presentation and flavour) appreciates a relaxed and fashionable atmosphere and values service which is executed with satisfaction and care. I extremely advocate!
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